Al-Saada

There are few reasons why one would come all the way to Al-Ghayl, a village in the Al-Aflaj Governorate, around 300 kilometers from Saudi Arabia’s capital city Riyadh.

Perhaps you’re a fan of “Layla and Majnun,” a love story that has reminded many of “Romeo and Juliet” (although, unlike the Shakespearian tragedy, it actually took place some 1,300 years ago). Or, maybe, you’re just briefly stopping here before traveling to Abha. But, even then, you’d be calling at a town named “Layla,” situated on the highway... whereas Al-Ghayl remains hidden away from the main road, around 40 minutes by car from Layla, well into the Aflaj countryside.

Anyway, if you really decide to go to Al-Ghayl, you’ll find the ruins of what was once an imposing palace, perched atop a hill, overlooking the town below. Its walls are made of sturdy rocks mixed with mud. In some places, an outer layer of clay and straw plaster still clings on. One of the walls has fully crumbled onto the hill below, leaving behind a trail of rocks and debris. The wooden ceilings are almost all gone, except for one single room, next to the remains of a tower. In all of this, however, one could still make out the beautiful triangular motives of Najdi architecture. And, if you look closely, you might still see some of the carvings and decorations on the walls.

According to the local historical memory, this palace already existed 400 years ago, when it was inhabited by Saad bin Qabban. It was then passed down to his descendants, known as the Al-Khubsha family. At one point, it saw the arrival of the poet Mohammed bin Farraj Al-Gargah, who dedicated a poem to Al-Ghayl and the generosity of its people.

And now, all this... is almost all gone. The castle, weathered by time, is slowly fading back into nature, alongside the memories of its heyday. It silently sits on this hill in the rural landscape of the Al-Aflaj Governorate, hidden away from most tourists. No restoration project, just a faded sign, quietly announcing “Al Saada Ancient Palace.”