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Articles Posts The Journey of a Pilgrim at an Athonite Monastery

The Journey of a Pilgrim at an Athonite Monastery

Days spent at the Monastery of St. John the Baptist in Essex.

Lana Velkov profile photo
Lana Velkov
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September 14, 2026
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In the Way of a Pilgrim, the Russian peasant sets out into the countryside with nothing other than a Bible and some bread.

This accounts my first visit to Monastery of St. John the Baptist in Essex that is in the UK, home to both monks and nuns, whilst also opening its doors to visitors.

Something of a rarity in the world.

This is my account as a pilgrim who stayed at the monastery for several days this autumn.

The new church
The new church

After a lengthy road trip with my friends from my local parish, we arrived to the monastery.

There is a bit of a hubbub when you enter.

Monks, nuns and visitors all walk the grounds.

There is the constant heartbeat of life wherever you look.

In the first several moments of entering, one feels like you are not in England, but somewhere far away.

It feels like Greece, Romania, Serbia.... like the Balkans... somewhere where double decker buses and phone booths do not feature.

But no, we are here, near Colchester, of all places...

And this is indeed an Athonite monastery.

Crypt of St. Sophrony the Athonite
Crypt of St. Sophrony the Athonite

One of the most sacred places in the monastery is the crypt of Saint Sophrony the Athonite.

Sophrony was responsible for founding this complex, later being canonised as a saint.

Reading of his life, his spiritual discernment is evident.

Twenty two years he had spent on Mount Athos, under the spiritual guidance of another revered saint - Saint Silouan the Athonite - only to bring a slice of it to this country.

He wrote numerous books and dedicated his life to Christ.

In appreciation, we prayed an Akathist to Saint Sophrony in his crypt.

Icons painted in the Old Rectory
Icons painted in the Old Rectory

Saint Sophrony was a Moscow and Paris-trained artist before his life on the Holy Mountain.

The monastery is full of impressive icons at every nook and cranny and wherever you go.

They remind you of God's presence at all times.

Even eating a snack turns into a love affair of the world and its mysteries when looking at such a sight.

Nuns and pilgrims
Nuns and pilgrims

I was told by a Norfolk priest who had sat next to me during the tea break that in his nineties, Sophrony himself painted some icons and faces on the monastery grounds, including some in the photo above.

After our first dinner, Sister Paula gave me information on where I was staying.

Off we went our separate ways and a nun kindly drove me to the house I was to stay at.

Early morning wake-up for Divine Liturgy
Early morning wake-up for Divine Liturgy

Early morning in a lonely house along Rectory Road, surrounded by nothing but fields and orchards, in a simple room, with just enough icons.

This is the ideal scene to wake up to.

Succumbing to your senses after a sleep, standing in the slowly arising sun, prayer comes naturally to the lips before you even begin to think.

The night before, we had attended a 2-hour evening service.

The Jesus Prayer was chanted in different languages in a dimly lit, almost fully dark church, illuminated only by the soft glow of orange light that streamed through the church windows.

The Orthodox pray with prayer beads in their hands, bent over small stools or sitting in stillness.

This was my first experience of this kind outside of the regular Divine Liturgies and Vespers I attend.

More icons
More icons

Being at this monastery is like having a whole cake in front of you.

I explained my feelings in this way to my dear friend, Oliver, with David sleeping at the back of the car:

"One must have a small slice at a time, and in due course. Too much can make one sick".

I recognise the importance of exploring this monastery and what it offers slowly over time and with the correct guidance.

I felt small next to the icons
I felt small next to the icons

I look at this photo, and think to myself "gosh, am I small next to these big saints... spiritually, I mean".

This was the general reflections I brought with me, on my departure.

St. Nicolas mosaic
St. Nicolas mosaic

This mosaic of my family's patron saint, Saint Nicolas, depicts the journey my heart went through over the days very well...

Seas of an unknown kind, eluding to all the uncharted waters I have left in front of me.

As a new life chapter unfolds, with lots of uncertainties in front of me, a door opens.

Many pilgrims come to the monastery several times a year, and some even move to Colchester, Tiptree and the surrounding area, in order to be close to this heavenly place.

I have already booked my next visit which will be longer.

Thank you so much to my dear friends David and Oliver who made this trip incredible and reverent.

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Essex, England

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Monastery of Saint John the Baptist Photo: Cristina Zaharescu
Monastery of Saint John the Baptist

Tolleshunt Knights, England, United Kingdom

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