Nai Mong Hoi Thod

This beloved shophouse restaurant just off Chinatown’s neon-glowing main drag has been honing the art of the perfect hoi tod, or oyster omelet, for more than three decades. Made from plump, briny bivalves, eggs, and a pancake-like batter thickened with rice flour for extra chew, Nai Mong’s star dish is much crispier and lighter than the oil-soaked versions you’ll often find elsewhere.

There are just a few options on the menu: order your omelet with fresh oysters or mussels, and choose between the barely-set orsuan version, or the crisp-edged, wok-smoky original (listed on the menu as orluo) most aficionados go for.

The restaurant’s tiny size means you have front-row views over the open kitchen, and watching the team prepare your order is half the fun. It’s a meticulously orchestrated dance of flames and charcoal smoke, high-speed stirring and batter sizzling in the cast-iron skillet

Eggs are added for richness, and only after a lacy, golden crust has formed, the fresh oysters or mussels are folded in for just a few seconds of heat. The final flourish is a scatter of spring onions, a bed of bean sprouts, and a dusting of pepper, resulting in a punchy, crunchy, and wonderfully greasy snack.