Fratelli Trecca

Unlike the round puffy-edged Neapolitan pies baked in domed wood-burning ovens, the pizza native to Rome is pizza al taglio: lengthy rectangles or oblongs baked in an iron teglia (pan) in a gas oven, whacked into sections, weighed, and brusquely shoved across worn bakery counters. Under a glistening sheen of tomato sauce or a layer of thin-sliced potatoes? Nice. But just as good is bianca (no topping).

One can find excellent versions at classic spots like Forno Roscioli (good luck getting in) as well as at dozens of neighborhood bakeries. In 2003 visionary pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci sparked a whole new artisanal pizza al taglio movement at his Pizzarium in the district of Prati, reinventing the genre with sourdough crust, esoteric flours, and cheffy toppings.

One current star among the capital’s new wave pizzerie al taglio is Fratelli Trecca near Circo Massimo, where ancient Romans once raced their chariots. It’s the newest project of Manuel and Nicolo Trecastelli, the talented brothers behind Trattoria Trecca in Ostiense and Pantera Pizza Rustica in Garbatella.

Behind the counter of their cheery new pizzeria with marble tables and soccer-intensive décor are pans of freshly baked rectangles sporting a crust that Manuel Trecastelli has described as “extremely technical.” In fact, it’s downright miraculous: thin and crisp in that Roman scrocchiarella (crackly) tradition, yet sturdy enough to support the weight of the toppings. These come in some two dozen varieties arranged in three categories.

The classiche include bright-red marinara, rosemary-scented potatoes, and seasonal treats like puntarelle with anchovies. Among the ripieni (filled pies) try those with porchetta or slowly braised greens. The speciali meanwhile pay homage to Rome’s quinto quarto tradition: headcheese with artichokes, tongue with puckery salsa verde, or tomatoey tripe.

To drink, there are natural wines and craft beers. Still hungry? Try the piatti di giorno like a stew of chicken gizzards with wild mushrooms and onions, plus classic fritti like suppli and fried bacala.