La Guez Mère

In the genre of sandwiches that stem from French colonization, the banh mi reigns supreme. But a lesser known fusion sandwich, at least outside of France, is the merguez frites.

Also known as the frites merguez, the sandwich takes the form of a light, puffy baguette stuffed with spicy lamb sausage, slathered with condiments, and topped with French fries. It’s the birth child of North African and French culinary traditions, and has become a staple in Paris, where it may be the city’s only true street food. Typically sold at fast food-leaning restaurants that serve a variety of savory fried and grilled dishes until the late hours, the sandwich is the centerpiece at La Guez Mère.

Located in the largely immigrant Belleville neighborhood, the shopfront at La Guez Mère takes the form of a repurposed Renault van. The menu spans a few variations on the sandwich, and supplements include onions and tomatoes, cheese or condiments such as spicy harissa.

The merguez, which here is grilled, is smokey and pleasantly charred, the French fries generously dusted with seasoned salt. Your dessert is the surprise tangle of deliciously salty, greasy fries you’ll find at the bottom of your bag.