Nekodan (Cat Stairway)

Located within Nara Park, famous for its polite, free-roaming deer, the Tōdai-ji temple complex is one of the city’s most beloved historic sites. But beyond its giant Buddha and bustling courtyards, a few curious legends linger around its quieter corners.

Just off the main hall lies the Nekodan, or “Cat Stairway,” an unassuming flight of stone steps found in many Japanese temples, but with a story that sets it apart. According to local folklore, those who tumble on these steps will be reborn as a cat in their next life. Once a cautionary tale, the legend is now often seen as a whimsical blessing.

Nara itself has deep ties to feline folklore. Some of the earliest written references to the nekomata, a supernatural cat yōkai with a split tail,  have been traced to the city, including a 1233 account of a man-eating nekomata. Whether the myth connects directly to the Nekodan is still a mystery.

For fans of yōkai lore, climb the Cat Stairway and look to your left: you’ll find Karakuni-jinja, a small shrine said to honor ancient Korean immigrants who helped build Tōdai-ji, as well as the Tengu who guard the temple grounds.