The jhol momo arrive swimming in a sunset-hued chutney, their meticulous pleats bobbing just above the surface. The consistency is somewhere between a tomato soup and a curry gravy, with a pleasant, slow-building burn. It’s the perfect foil for the richness of goat meat—although these dumplings also come stuffed with paneer, potatoes, beef, and all manner of other fillings. 

With large Tibetan and Nepalese communities, Jackson Heights is the place to go for all sorts of regional styles of momos. By the time sibling duo Yamuna Shrestha and Shree Shrestha opened up their small restaurant in the shadow of the 7 train, the neighborhood already had a wealth of options. Yet the Shresthas, who hail from just west of Kathmandu, still made a name for themselves, scoring the winning spot multiple years in a row on the informal neighborhood Momo Crawl. 

While an order of jhol momos belongs on every table, there are plenty of other heavy-hitters on the menu of Nepalese specialties. Both the thali and the samay baji sets offer solo diners the chance to try a range of dishes, all accompanied by chutney and brightly acidic pickles. Order one or two sel roti, chewy, crushed-rice doughnuts meant for dunking in a tangy, fiery dipping sauce, for the table. Head to the back of the restaurant to refill your cup with warmly spiced masala chai from the insulated container.