Starting in the late 19th century, and following a trend kicked off in Paris, Lisbon went kiosk crazy. At its peak, the city was home to nearly 70 kiosks, many of which served simple drinks—largely sweet herbal liqueurs and beer.
Several of these Art Nouveau-era kiosks remain in Lisbon today, but all but one are owned by the city, who has generally leased them to larger brands that serve a bland repertoire of international drinks and snacks. But Quiosque de São Paulo, Lisbon’s only privately-owned kiosk, has gone in a different direction.
When chef/restaurateur André Magalhães took over the kiosk in 2020, he deliberately chose menu items that reflected the options available during the heyday of kiosks, from the late 19th century until around the 1960s. As such, the drink menu at Quiosque de São Paulo includes items such as vinho quinado, port wine supplemented with quinine, and amarguinha, bitter almond liqueur.
Snacks include punheta de bacalhau, an old-school Lisbon dish that combines raw salt cod, onions and olive oil, ovos verdes, literally “green eggs,” something like a deep-fried deviled egg, and pastéis de massa tenra, Portuguese hand pies—items you’ll struggle to find elsewhere in town.
Know Before You Go
If Lisbon has a cult dish, it’s quite possibly Quiosque de São Paulo’s sandes de lula frita, fried squid sandwich, fried squid served with a spicy, citrusy mayonnaise in a toasted Portuguese-style roll.