Líder, located on the ground floor of a block of bland apartments outside Porto’s historical center, may not look like much, but it’s emerged as a go-to for what is arguably the city’s most emblematic food item.

Tripas à moda do Porto, Porto-style tripe, is so synonymous with the local cuisine that the people of Porto call themselves Tripeiros, “Tripe Eaters.” It’s said that they have been fond of eating the lining of the cow’s stomach since the 14th century, when a battle meant this was the only protein available. But the way the dish is served today would be utterly unrecognizable to a Tripeiro from that era. 

At Líder, veal tripe is braised until tender with white beans and smoked meats in a subtly tomatoey sauce, and is served with buttery rice and optional condiments of ground cumin and a spicy chili oil. The beans, tomatoes, cumin, and chili are all ingredients from far beyond Europe, which wouldn’t have arrived in town until after Portugal’s “discoveries” in the 16th century. Yet over the centuries, these elements came together in the form of this beloved dish.

This chef behind Líder is Manuel Moura, who is also the founder and President of the Confraria das Tripas à Moda do Porto, the Gastronomic Brotherhood of Porto-Style Tripe—and he has his medal hanging on the wall to prove it. 

Such gastronomic brotherhoods are common, particularly in Portugal’s north. Such lofty status is likely the source of the restaurant’s charming stuffiness—there are chandeliers, mint-colored walls, and crew-cut waiters wear bowties and perform tableside service for what is a relatively rustic dish.