Casa Labra

The people of Madrid, firmly landlocked smack dab in the center of Spain, are huge fans of seafood, so much so that the city has a tongue-in-cheek reputation as “Spain’s best port.”

This fondness goes back centuries, and one of its more popular manifestations was pavías de merluza, battered and deep-fried hake. The cooking method was ostensibly brought to Madrid by Sephardic Jews from southern Spain, and is almost certainly a precursor to Britain’s fish and chips. When salt cod became ubiquitous in Spain starting in the 17th century, it eventually superseded hake, and is now the standard, served at a couple long standing Madrid restaurants that specialize in the dish.

The most famous of these—and the oldest, dating back to 1860—is Casa Labra. Today, customers form two lines – one for standing at the bar, another for the dining room—for a finger-sized cut of tender, moist cod encased in a crispy batter shell. Croquetas de bacalao (creamy salt cod croquettes), and drinks are also available.