Terry's of Charlevoix

Not far from Earl Young’s beloved stone “mushroom houses” is Terry’s of Charlevoix, often referred to simply as Terry's Place. The line to dine begins forming at 4 p.m. It ultimately stretches down Antrim Street away from the Charlevoix Marina and East Park until 5 o’clock, when they begin letting customers in. As the regional and national press from the 1980s that still adorns the walls attests (why hello there Molly Abraham), this no-reservations destination is the place to enjoy whitefish, perch, or walleye from Charlevoix’s own John Cross Fisheries. 

Customers can choose which cold-water caught fish they would like and whether they would like it prepared meunière, almondine, Robinson, or grenobloise. Go grenobloise—the fish is pan sautéed and served with lemon beurre blanc and capers. The escargot is tempting too, if only because it’s not often that you can still find it served in the proper porcelain dish set atop a white paper doily. But be careful not to over order. The pieces of clean, white-fleshed freshwater fish are so generous that they hang off the sides of the plate.