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All Thailand Bangkok Gedhawa
AO Edited Gastro Obscura

Gedhawa

For more than 30 years, this stalwart has been one of the few restaurants in Bangkok specializing in northern Thai cuisine.

Bangkok, Thailand

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Chris Schalkx
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The khao soi at Gedhawa comes with a rich, coconutty broth.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
Step through the foliage for some of the best Thai food in town.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
For more than 30 years, Gedhawa has been one of the few places in Bangkok specializing in northern Thai staples.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
The strikingly colorful interior has remained much the same over the decades.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
An order of khao soi belongs on every table.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
Pause to take in all the details.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
The Lanna hors d’oeuvre features northern-style sausage and dips.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
Gedhawa is a Bangkok institution.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
Escape the Sukhumvit chaos and spend a leisurely lunch at this beloved spot.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
Khao soi comes with both simmered and fried noodles.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
The interior at Gedhawa is practically a work of art.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
The khao soi and the Lanna hors d’oeuvre platter with nam prik are must-orders.   Chris Schalkx for Gastro Obscura
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About

Bangkok’s Thai food scene is a regional melting pot. Spicy larb and som tum papaya salads dominate the menus of the city’s countless northeastern Thai (also known as Isan) restaurants, and you’ll find plenty of places serving up the seafood-rich curries the southern provinces are famous for. Northern food, however, is far less ubiquitous.

That’s what makes Gedhawa, hidden behind a tangle of greenery in a quiet corner of the Phrom Phong district, such a standout. For almost three decades, this unfussy, home-style spot has been championing the bold flavors of Thailand’s northern provinces through recipes brought over by its Chiang Mai-born owner.

On the menu, hand-written on cardboard and fixed with glued-on photographs of each dish, you’ll find a wide range of northern staples such as khao soi (a spicy, coconutty curry soup with egg noodles) and “Lanna hors d'oeuvre” platters of northern Thai sai oua sausage, crispy pork cracklings, and blanched vegetables served with pounded nam prik ong and nam prik num chili dips.

The hung lay, a rich northern Thai pork curry with roots in Myanmar, melts in the mouth, and the gaeng hed thob, a soupy red curry with chicken and marble-sized hed thob mushrooms, is a knockout. Order the northern-style larb moo for the tongue-tingling kick of makwaen pepper, and don’t miss out on some of the non-northern dishes on the menu, such as the excellent fish sauce-marinated fried chicken wings.

Purists might quibble that some flavors have been muted for Bangkok palates, but Gedhawa’s charm lies in its warmth and offbeat character. With its friendly service and affordable prices, this low-key institution offers one of the city’s most soulful northern Thai meals.

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Gedhawa is open Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

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chrsschlkx

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May 15, 2025

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Gedhawa
78/2, Taweewan Place, Sukhumvit Soi 33, Khlong Tan Nuea
Bangkok, 10110
Thailand
13.735833, 100.567959
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